Taba Squishy DIY: Complete AB Resin Guide for Beginners & Pros!

Hello everyone! Today, we're bringing you a detailed introduction and tutorial on AB resin! Whether you're a complete beginner or an advanced crafter, this guide will help you solve various problems you might encounter when working with AB resin. Be sure to save this!

I. Mold Preparation

Before you start, prepare your mold. Remember to apply a layer of Vaseline to the mold. This not only protects the mold but also prevents resin residue, which can lead to toxicity issues. Vaseline also increases the softness and tackiness of the resin, which is especially important for creating creamy and "new clay" (shin-dei) textures.

II. AB Resin Mixing and Coloring

Pour the A and B components of the resin into a cup, adjusting the ratio according to your needs. Common ratios are 1:1 (e.g., 10g of A + 10g of B) or 1:2 (e.g., 10g of A + 20g of B). Different ratios affect the softness; the softness is primarily determined by the B component. Important Note: Do not mix resins with different tactile properties. Always perform a small test before mixing different types of resin.

Add silicone-specific pigment paste and begin stirring. You can add the pigment to the A component first and stir to prevent pigment settling, then add the B component. Crucially, ensure you thoroughly stir the bottom and edges of the cup. Incomplete mixing will leave residue, affecting curing and even potentially leading to toxicity.

Caution: Fast-drying pigment pastes or cheap, low-quality pigments can easily cause pigment settling. Absolutely do not use non-silicone-specific pigments, like those designed for drop-in resin coloring. These can directly lead to toxicity and prevent proper curing.

III. Pouring into the Mold and Curing

Once thoroughly mixed, pour the resin into the mold. During the curing process, avoid contact with water and oil fumes. There should be no oil fumes in the air, and you should not smoke or touch the resin with hands that have recently held a cigarette. Do not attempt to demold before the resin is completely cured. Demolding prematurely can cause the resin to stick to the mold.

IV. Cleaning Vaseline

If Vaseline residue remains on the mold, you can wash it by soaking it in hot water with dish soap, or by using hot water with baking soda. Makeup remover, facial cleanser, and cooking oil can also effectively remove Vaseline residue.

V. Bubble Issues

Although our resin has self-defoaming properties, bubbles can be difficult to eliminate completely in hot weather. We recommend using a vacuum chamber to remove bubbles. Alternatively, you can place the mixed resin in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes before pouring it into the mold. Vacuum food containers can also help with defoaming, but they are not as effective as a professional vacuum chamber.

VI. Drip/Glaze Effects and Cream Piping

When you need a drip or glaze effect, adding platinum catalyst to the B component is an excellent choice. The more platinum catalyst you add, the faster the curing speed, so be mindful of your working time. For cream piping, "new clay" (shin-dei) texture resin is suitable, but avoid adding too much pigment, as this can lead to toxicity.

VII. Oily Residue and Tackiness

Water-based resins or resins that have been diluted with water may contain more oil. Over time, they might release oil. You can use oil-absorbing paper to blot it or let it air out. Regarding tackiness, the tackiness of food-grade silicone will decrease below 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit). This is normal, and the tackiness will improve after a few days.